September Newsletter: Good Smells
What's your relationship to scents? Do you think about it often? I find scent endlessly fascinating because scent plays such a significant role in the arenas I spend the bulk of my time on: cooking/eating, beauty, and the natural world.
Like many of us, my first exposures were teenage body spray atrocities. In 2015 when I was first entering the beauty/wellness universe, I was radicalized by the church of Paula Begoun and her anti-fragrance agenda.
I also learnt more about people with fragrance and chemical sensitivities and how perfumery can make public and shared spaces inaccessible or uncomfortable for them. Perfume being the only avenue into scent is as if the only way we could listen to music was full blast on speakers with no headphones. Fragrance levels in everyday products like laundry and dish soaps are akin to the city's cacophonous hum of mechanical noise.
I've been more intentionally exploring scent over the last few years. This includes swapping out most household products for fully fragrance-free versions, allowing me to be more intentional and sensitive when deciding to integrate fragrance.
I take the same approach in the studio. My facial back bar includes many fragrance-free options to allow me to integrate fragrances very intentionally and individually- via custom aromatherapy on linens or select botanically scented skincare products.
When it comes to fragrance in skincare products, I have a nuanced take: fragrance is the most common skincare allergy. If you are having issues with sensitivity and allergies, it's the first thing I suggest cutting out. If you aren't having problems, fragrance can bring a beautiful aesthetic quality to your skincare ritual. Scents in skincare products (especially wash-off) are unlikely to cause issues for sensitive strangers you may encounter in the world- making them a more respectful way to appreciate and explore fragrance in your life.
If you are a fume head and want to explore these ideas more, here are some books, podcasts, and products I recommend.
Links:
Podcast: Fat Mascara Episode 153 "That Laundry Smell
An interview with a perfumer who works on consumer products like Laundry Soap. Also goes into fascinating details about what it takes to work with your nose at this level- including what things you can’t eat or drink at work to preserve sensitivity.
Book: Nose Dive; A Field Guide to the World’s Smells
An extensive and thorough scientific investigation of the molecular world of smells. Goes into classic stuff like why we love cut grass, wet pavement, and flowers, why some people can’t stand cilantro, but also on esoteric side quests like what would the big bang have smelled like?
Truly unscented home care products:
This company has everything and is usually available at refillery-type places.
Very important if you are exploring DIY perfumery or messing around with essential oils. Dilution and concentrations are very important and oils can be dangerous if not used correctly
Perfumes I love and use in Moderation:
Cannabis (black pepper, bergamot, magnolia, cedarwood, patchouli, sandalwood) also available in a candle.
Tuscan Leather (saffron, thyme, olibanum, leather, suede, amber)
Not A Perfume: (a single ingredient consisting of the synthetic molecule cetalox, like the MSG of perfumery, it just smells… good.)
Odeur 53: ( Ok I don’t own this one, but I smell it and try it on every chance I get. Its so bizarre, mineral, airy. Smells different on everyone and is strange and ozonic. Notes listed are: metallic, clay, pebbles and sand)
Finally,
Put some fresh eucalyptus in your shower!